rock1
rg icon

Rock Guide

The Rock Guide certificate program is designed to develop the guiding and instructional skills needed to work in technical rock terrain. This includes long, multi-pitch routes; sport-climbs; and top-rope climbs on terrain where no glaciation and no permanent or seasonal snow or ice exists.

rock3

Overview

  • The Rock Guide certificate program is designed to develop the guiding and instructional skills needed to work in technical rock terrain. This includes long, multi-pitch routes; sport-climbs; and top-rope climbs on terrain where no glaciation and no permanent or seasonal snow or ice exists.
  • The Apprentice Rock Guide course is also a prerequisite for the Alpine Guide certificate.
  • This program requires a strong technical rock climbing background in a variety of rock types and climbing disciplines.

Prerequisites

This is an absolute minimum. To demonstrate these skills in an exam setting requires a great deal of confidence, ability and fitness. Most candidates enter the program with a much higher personal standard than the minimum required.

Experience

Candidates are expected to arrive with a strong recreational climbing background with an acquired knowledge of knots, belaying, anchors, protection strategies and climbing systems. It is assumed that the candidates can lead the climbs listed on the submitted resume. Candidates are expected to be physically prepared for a week of outdoor activity.

Personal Climbing Standard

  • The candidate's personal "flash" climbing standard is at a minimum of 5.10d, and their minimum "redpoint" climbing standard is at 5.11a or better, either when placing gear on traditionally protected leads or while climbing bolt protected "sport" climbs.
  • The candidate is current with modern climbing trends and familiar with the language and pedagogy of training for rock climbing.

Advanced First Aid

An Advanced Wilderness First Aid course with a minimum 80 hours is required. Courses from this partial list of providers have proven adequate in the past. Contact the ACMG if you are uncertain about other programs.

First Aid Overview

The ACMG does not run these programs but rather relies on outside course providers.

  • For the Mountain Guide and Hiking Guide Programs an Advanced Wilderness First Aid course with a minimum of 80 hours is required. Although wilderness courses are preferred, Occupational First Aid Level 3 is also accepted.

  • The Climbing Instructor Programs require a Standard First Aid Course. These courses usually run over a two-day period (minimum 16 hrs), combining theory and practical sessions to provide the basis for dealing with traumatic and medical emergencies.

Advanced Wilderness First Aid

An Advanced Wilderness First Aid course with a minimum 80 hours is required. Courses from the following partial list of providers have proven adequate in the past. Contact the ACMG Training and Assessment Program office if you are uncertain about other programs.

  • Alberta Health and Safety Training Institute
    125 3510 29th Street NE Calgary AB T1Y7E5
    Phones 1.888.670.5406, 403-670-5406, fax 1-866-202-1822
    info@safetyed.ca, www.safetyed.ca
  • Canadian Institute of Safety Search and Rescue Advanced First Aid
    Box 6151, Cochrane AB TOL OW0 Phone 403-932-3689
  • Outdoor Emergency Care Program - National Ski Patrol
    NSP National Office 133 South Van Gordon Street, Suite 100 Lakewood, CO 80228
    http://www.nsp.org/nsp_programs/oec.aspx
  • Pacific Alpine Institute
    102-4369 Main Street, Suite #997, Whistler, B.C. V0N 1B4 Phone 604 938-7846
    www.pacificalpineinstitute.com
  • Peak Emergency Response Training
    1717 Beach Grove Road South Delta, BC V4L 1P4
    778.899.7325, admin@peakemergencytraining.com, www.peakemergencytraining.com
  • Remote Medical International
    3400 Harbor Ave SW. Suite 344 Seattle, WA 98116
    206.686.4878 Toll Free: 800.597.4911 info@remotemedical.com, www.remotemedical.com
  • Rescue Dynamics
    5109 -17 A Ave. NW, Edmonton AB T6L 1K51
    780-461-5040 rescuedynamicsinfo@telusplanet.net, www.rescuedynamics.ca
  • Rocky Mountain Adventure Medicine Inc.
    9 Manyhorses Close, Redwood Meadows, AB T3Z 1A1
    Phone/Fax 403-949-2632 adventuremedic@nucleus.com, www.adventuremed.ca
  • Sirius Wilderness Medicine
    2685 rue Rolland, suite 303, Ste-Adèle, QC J8B 1C9
    Phone 514.509.2112, Toll free 877.982.0066, Fax 514.509.2123
    email: info@siriusmed.com www.siriusmed.com
  • Slipstream Wilderness First Aid
    #403 110-174 Wilson Street, Victoria, BC, V9A 7N7
    1-800-760-3188 email: info@wildernessfirstaid.ca, web: www.wildernessfirstaid.ca
  • Wilderness Alert Safety Training & Products
    Box 95050 Vancouver BC V6P 6V5
    Phone 604-263-1432 or 1-800-298-9919 email:
    info@wildernessalert.com, web: www.wildernessalert.com
  • Wilderness Medical Associates, Canada
    106- 1100 Main St. W., Hamilton ON L8S 1B3
    Phone toll free 1-877-945-3633, 905-524-5531 web www.wildmed.ca
  • Wilderness Medical Consultants
    Box 64 - 512-9th St South, Golden, BC V0A 1H0
    Toll free 1-888-344-4755, 250.344.4755 web www.wildernessmedicalconsultants.ca
    info@wildernessmedicalconsultants.ca

 

rg flow chart

 

 

Featured Partner

rock2
logos3

 

Guide Training Rock

This is the baseline course for both the Rock Guide and Alpine Guide programs.

Goal

  • To demonstrate and model the preferred methods and technical skills used by ACMG professional guides in rock terrain.
  • To assist the candidate in developing guiding and instructional skills through practice, coaching and feedback.
  • To prepare the candidate for the assessment courses and to provide direction and recommendation with regard to future ACMG training and certification courses.
  • To screen the candidate's movement skills and knowledge of recreational level climbing systems and to ensure the candidate is at the level of the course prerequisites.

Format

Full field day sessions combine with evening lectures and group learning sessions. Recreational climbing skills and judgement are screened as part of the daily activities. The course is designed to help prepare the candidate and introduce some of the recommended methods common to rock guiding through indoor and outdoor training sessions and practical application. Self-directed learning, and practiced application of guide skills on your own time is required prior to the exams.

Field Session Examples

Anchors and protection placement/Belaying/ Rappelling, lowering systems/Multi-pitch management/Rock rescue/Client care/Short roping /Hazard evaluation

Lecture Session Examples

Climbing systems/Guide Meeting Format/Use of Options/Planning a Guided Week.

Evaluation Areas

  • Screening of movement skills in rock terrain.
  • Knowledge of: belaying, protection, hazard evaluation.

Location and Length

Eight days, run in June. Location varies but is most often held in the Canmore, Alta., or Squamish BC areas.

 

arg icon Apprentice Rock Guide Exam

Goal

To train and assess candidates in instruction and guiding of rock climbs in non-glaciated and non-"alpine" terrain and provide counselling toward further apprenticed work and future courses.

Format

This is an exam with coaching and debriefing components. The focus is on principle based learning giving the candidates the strategies for problem solving through coaching and practical application in simulated guide/client scenarios. Guiding and instructional skills will be marked on a daily basis and a final assessment made based on the candidates overall performance.

Expectations

On the exam, each candidate will be examined on crag routes (without a pack) on both crack and face climbs up to 10d. Each candidate will also be evaluated on multipitch routes using bolts and or gear for protection and anchors. The multipitch exam routes may be up to 5.10d and may have short sections of aid climbing, and will have the additional complications of route finding, endurance, natural hazards, and climbing with a pack. The technical expectation when evaluating a candidate on multipitch routes may be lowered accordingly, and the occasional move of aid (a hang, or pulling on a bolt for efficiency) may be seen as appropriate. However, candidates should be climbing at a higher personal standard to feel comfortable at the expected grade, and comfortable with the changing route conditions. Above all else, an awareness of personal safety and an appropriate managing of personal risks must be demonstrated and good technical skills.

Exam Areas

Guide candidates will be evaluated on climbs (sport and multipitch) on a variety of rock types, and under variable weather conditions. Rock rescue, lowering and rappelling, client care, guiding and teaching skills will also be examined.

Location and length

These courses are usually conducted in Canmore, Alta., and/or Squamish BC near the beginning of September over eight days.

 

rg icon Rock Guide Exam

Goal

To train and assess candidates in instruction and guiding of rock climbs in non-glaciated and non-"alpine" terrain and provide counselling toward further apprenticed work and future courses.

Format

This is an exam with coaching and debriefing components. The focus is on principle based learning giving the candidates the strategies for problem solving through coaching and practical application in simulated guide/client scenarios. Guiding and instructional skills will be marked on a daily basis and a final assessment made based on the candidates overall performance.

Expectations

  • On the exam, each candidate will be examined on crag routes (without a pack) on both crack and face climbs up to 10d.
  • Each candidate will also be evaluated on multipitch routes using bolts and or gear for protection and anchors.
  • The multipitch exam routes may be up to 5.10d and may have short sections of aid climbing, and will have the additional complications of route finding, endurance, natural hazards, and climbing with a pack.
  • The technical expectation when evaluating a candidate on multipitch routes may be lowered accordingly, and the occasional move of aid (a hang, or pulling on a bolt for efficiency) may be seen as appropriate. However, candidates should be climbing at a higher personal standard to feel comfortable at the expected grade, and comfortable with the changing route conditions.
  • Above all else, an awareness of personal safety and an appropriate managing of personal risks must be demonstrated and good technical skills.

Exam Areas

Guide candidates will be evaluated on climbs (sport and multipitch) on a variety of rock types, and under variable weather conditions. Rock rescue, lowering and rappelling, client care, guiding and teaching skills will also be examined.

Location and length

These courses are usually conducted in Canmore, Alta., and/or Squamish BC near the beginning of September over eight days.

 

tap icon

How to Apply

The application package below outlines what is required to be submitted when applying to each training course or exam.

Application Package

Guide Training Rock

Apprentice Rock Guide Exam (Upon completion of training courses)

Rock Guide Exam (After 1-3 years of apprenticeship)

 

  1. Please read through in detail and ensure that your application includes all of the required elements.
  2. Complete the online registration form: TAP Application Form
  3. We recommend using the Chrome browser when completing your online application, Safari, Firefox and Internet Explorer are not well supported by our student information system software.

By applying to the training course in each stream you are automatically registered for the apprentice exam in that stream (pending a recommendation from the training course instructors). You do not need to submit a separate application unless you completed the training courses in a different year or have already attempted the exam and are applying to take it again.

Dates and Fees

NOTE: Schedule and costs may vary due to conditions and enrolment. As a result dates and fees may change without notice. Full payment is required 45 days prior to the course start. Remain flexible in your dates as the ACMG office reserves the right of candidate placement.

Course Location Date Fees App Deadline
Guide Training Rock Canmore, AB June 8-16, 2019 $2740 + GST March 1, 2019
Guide Training Rock Squamish, BC June 8-16, 2019 $2740 + GST March 1, 2019
Apprentice Rock Guide Exam Canmore, AB September 6-12, 2019 $2225 + GST July 5, 2019
Apprentice Rock Guide Exam Squamish, BC September 6-12, 2019 $2225 + GST July 5, 2019
Rock Guide Exam TBC September 12-18, 2019 $2250 + GST June 1, 2019
Rock Program Coached Training Days Canmore, AB August 7-9, 2019 $1020 + GST July 5, 2019
Rock Program Coached Training Days Squamish, BC August 7-9, 2019 $1020 + GST July 5, 2019

For more information:

ACMG Training and Assessment Program
Box 8245
Canmore, AB Canada T1W 2T9
403.679.9181
tap@acmg.ca